How to walk the Kumano Kodo in winter｜I’ll tell you about recommended hiking trails, sights, clothing and what to bring!
Kumano Kodo in winter Recommended hiking trails
Kumano Kodo, Ise Route Course
The Kumano Kodo is a pilgrimage route that spans three prefectures, including Wakayama Prefecture, and leads to three shrines known as the Kumano Sanzan.
There are five major routes in the Kumano Kodo, one of which, the Ise-ji route along the eastern coast of the Kii Peninsula, is introduced here. The Ise-ji route is minor compared to major routes such as the Nakahechi route, but as the road runs along the Pacific coast, it is relatively mild even in winter and is a recommended trekking route.
The Ise Road leads from Ise Jingu Shrine to the Kumano Sanzan Mountains. The road passes over a number of mountain passes and offers a variety of scenic views from the passes, including a panoramic view of the Sea of Kumano and the terraced rice paddies, which are said to be the best in Japan.
[Recommended] Ise Route Walking Course in 2 days and 1 night
Day 1.
Magose Toge – Mt Tengura
Owase Shrine: A camphor tree said to be over 1,000 years old towers high in the sky.
Onigajo: From the observatory known as Oni-no-Miharidai, a panoramic view of the Sea of Kumano can be seen.
Day 2.
Shichirimihama Beach, Lion Rock:.
Shichirimihama is the longest sand and gravel beach in Japan, and a pleasant place to start at sunrise.
Hana no Iwaya Shrine: Registered as a World Heritage site and one of the largest power spots on the Kumano Kodo.
Kumano River boat cruise – Maruyama Senmaida – Yumoto Sanso Yunokuchi Onsen
Walking courses with storytellers
Many of you may have experienced that knowledge of history and culture can make even the same scenery look different.
The Kumano Kodo has a group called the Kumano Hongu Storytellers’ Association, which introduces the history and culture, as well as the seasonal wildflowers that bloom along the Kodo and the lifestyle of the mountain villages, and walks the Kodo together.
The Kumano Kodo is full of fascinating historical and natural landscapes that cannot be discovered simply by walking along it. Why not enjoy a different kind of Kumano Kodo by learning about them?
No advance booking is required, and the storytellers board the bus every Sunday at 9:20 am from Kumano Hongu Taisha-mae to Hatsushinmon-oji.
Kumano Hongu Storytellers’ Association official website
http://www.hongu-kataribe.jp/index.html
Kumano Kodo in winter Recommendations
To warm up your cold body! Two recommended hot springs along the Kumano Kodo
Kawayu Onsen ‘Senninburo’ (Sennin Bath)
Kawayu Onsen is located on the Oto River, a tributary of the Kumano River, and is one of Wakayama’s representative onsen.
The hot spring is formed when the Oto River, a tributary of the Kumano River, mixes with a source of over 70 degrees Celsius constantly gushing from the riverbed.
Kawayu Onsen has a vast open-air bath called the Hermit’s Bath, which only appears in winter.
The Hermit Baths, known as a winter tradition, are available from December to February the following year. Because it is located in the middle of nature, you can rest your body while enjoying the blue and starry sky.
Kawayu Onsen Sennin Baths
| Period. | Dec – end of Feb. |
| Bathing hours | 6.30am to 10pm. |
| Bathing fees | Free of charge |
| Parking | Free approx. 36 cars (approx. 150 m downstream from the hermit bath) |
●[Nakahechi] Yunomine hot spring “Tsuboyu”.
The Tsuboyu hot spring is located in the Yunomine hot spring resort, known as the oldest hot spring in Japan. It is part of the Kumano Kodo Trail, which is also registered as a World Heritage Site.
The Tsuboyu is a rock bath with natural hot spring water, which changes colour from day to day, hence the name ‘seven-coloured hot spring’.
It is a must-visit hot spring when walking the Kumano Kodo Trail!
| Period | all year |
| Bathing time | 6:00 ～ 21:30 ※1 group 30 minutes |
| fee for a public bath | 770 yen per person. |
[Nakahechi] Nachi Waterfalls
Nachi Falls has the highest drop in Japan and is one of the ‘Three Greatest Waterfalls of Japan’. The Nachi Falls can be visited all year round and are powerful any time of year, but it is only in winter, when the air is cooler, that they look and feel more divine.
The waterfalls can also freeze over in the early morning when the winter temperatures are bitterly cold. The rock surfaces around the falls turn white and parts of the waterfall basin are covered in ice. Please enjoy the Nachi Falls, which can only be seen in winter!
[Nakahechi] Dokyu Zenmon Jizo.
On the road between Hoshinmon Oji and Fushinmon Oji, which is considered to be the entrance to the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine’s sacred area, there is a Doyu Zenmon Jizo that makes offerings to pilgrims who have fallen ill.
In winter, local people put straw hats on them to protect them from the cold. They look warm and watch over travellers walking along the snow-covered ancient road.
The thoughtful behaviour of the locals warms the heart.
morning fog
Morning fog occurs in autumn and winter.Introduces places where fantastic and beautiful morning mist can be seen.
(1) [Nakahechi] Morning mist on the Takahara.
The Takahara of Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, is prone to morning fog and is known as the ‘fog village’.A large difference in temperature between day and night and high humidity can be expected.
(ii) [Nakahechi] Chikatsuyu morning fog.
The village of Chikatsuyu, where the Hioki River flows through a basin, is often shrouded in morning mist from autumn to winter. The fog gently envelops the mountain villages.
Why not spend a relaxing night and wake up early in the morning to enjoy the beautiful scenery?
(i) SEN.RETREAT TAKAHARA, a recommended place to stay on the Takahara.
SEN.RETREAT TAKAHARA, a one-room inn that opened in October 2021, was created by renovating an old private house.The inn is unmanned and operated, so you can spend your time without worrying about other people’s eyes.Meat and vegetables from Wakayama Prefecture, sake, juice and snacks prepared at the inn are all included in the accommodation fee, so you can enjoy them without worrying about the price.
Enjoy the warmth of the wood in the spacious living room, or talk over a bonfire in the evening. At night, the sky is full of stars!
(ii) SEN.RETREAT CHIKATSUYU, a recommended place to stay in Chikatsuyu.
SEN.RETREAT CHIKATSUYU, which just opened in April 2022, is a seven-unit container villa with a stone oven for making pizzas and lava-plate BBQs. Like SEN.RETREAT TAKAHARA, it will be an all-inclusive accommodation.It is also possible to stay here with your dog!
What to wear and bring when walking the Kumano Kodo in winter
Climate (weather and temperature)
Kumano Kodo is located in the south of Honshu, but as it is a mountainous area, it can get quite cold in winter. Also, daylight hours are shorter, so a course or schedule that allows you to enter your lodge early in the evening is recommended!
The Kumano Kodo and Ise Route courses are mild, with little snowfall or snow cover and very little rain.
The area around the Kumano Sanzan mountains is low, ranging from 100 m to 600 m, but temperatures are not much different from those on the plains.
Clothing, shoes and personal belongings
See this article for basic clothing and personal belongings!
● Clothing.
Winter is cold and you must bring warm clothing.
● Shoes.
Trekking shoes are recommended.
Sneakers or walking shoes with comfortable, non-slip soles are also recommended.
The Kumano Kodo is not only a mountain trail but also an asphalt trail, so heavy mountaineering shoes may make it difficult to walk on the asphalt. Trekking shoes or light mountaineering shoes are therefore recommended.
● Personal belongings.
If you have decided on accommodation, you can send several days’ worth by courier or other means. Bring rainwear and a rucksack cover in case of rain or snow.
Kumano Kodo in winter Summary
In this issue, we have introduced how to walk the Kumano Kodo in winter.
Although spring and autumn are considered the best seasons to visit Kumano Kodo, there are actually many courses and spots that can be enjoyed and should be visited only in winter.
Why not make the most of the Kumano Kodo in winter by taking good winter protection measures?
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