Family-Friendly Kumano Kodo: Stay Review of the Newly Opened SEN.RETREAT CHIKATSUYU
We interviewed guests who stayed at SEN.RETREAT CHIKATSUYU, a lodging that opened in 2022 along the UNESCO World Heritage–listed Kumano Kodo, to learn how they planned and enjoyed their trip.
Located in Chikatsuyu on the Nakahechi route, the property offers easy access to highlights such as Kumano Hongu Taisha (Grand Shrine)—making it an ideal base for exploring the area.
This article is a family travel report, so if you’re planning to walk the Kumano Kodo with kids, you’ll find plenty of practical tips here.
Who we spoke with
T.I. (29, female) from Tokyo. She traveled the Kumano Kodo with her husband and their 1-year-old, plus close friends from Kagawa—a couple with a newborn—making a party of six.
Why We Chose the Kumano Kodo
Since we live in Tokyo and our friends (a family) are in Shikoku, we looked for somewhere halfway to meet. Osaka was a contender, but we wanted to slow down in nature, so we went with the Kumano Kodo.
I’d long wanted to see this UNESCO World Heritage–listed trail, so it was the perfect chance.
Schedule of stay at Kumano Kodo
We visited the Kumano Kodo on a 2-day/1-night itinerary and stayed at the SEN.RETREAT CHIKATSUYU.
15:00 Check-in.
Since we were traveling with two kids and wanted extra time, we checked in right at 3:00 p.m., when check-in opened. The inn is stocked with food and alcoholic beverages, but since our group enjoys a drink, we popped over to A-Coop Kinan Kumano Kodo Chikatsuyu, the supermarket right in front of the property, to pick up some extras.
This supermarket has a section featuring locally made deli items, bread, and fresh produce. We picked up Chikatsuyu Miso and Kishu plums, and decided to enjoy them as a snack with vegetable sticks. A-Coop closes at 6:00 p.m., so we recommend shopping early.
16:00 The evening meal is ready to begin!
Friends who are great cooks handled the barbecue, pizza, and cheese fondue, while the men lit the pizza oven and started the campfire. I was on babysitting duty.
17:00 Dinner starts – pizza from the pizza oven and lava plate BBQ.
We baked pizzas in the pizza oven and grilled meat on a lava stone plate. We chatted and had a great time together. The two kids were absolutely thrilled to be in a different setting.
We gave the cheese fondue a grown-up touch by adding the white wine provided at the inn. We made one pizza mild so the kids could enjoy it and another one spicy for the adults.
The craft beer from Tanabe, Wakayama—VOYAGER BREWING—stocked at the inn was fantastic, and we couldn’t have been happier. We finished it in no time!
With a screen and projector at the inn, we could stream YouTube and more—handy for when the kids got a bit fussy.
20:00 Bathing & putting children to bed
The place is family-friendly: there’s a bathtub as well as a shower, perfect for a proper soak with the kids, and a washer-dryer for any messy outfits. By bedtime, our six-person cottage’s two bedrooms—one with two twins and one with two small doubles—made co-sleeping easy.
21:00 Talking around the fire.
After putting the children to bed, the adults alone gathered around the bonfire to talk.We don’t usually get the chance to sit around a bonfire, but it’s nice to watch the fire while listening to the crackling sound…
It was a treasured time, as we were able to have in-depth conversations that we don’t normally talk about.
8:00 Morning with hot sandwiches
We made breakfast with the sandwich press provided at the inn. The kids had toast and the bananas we brought. Those of us nursing hangovers enjoyed the all-natural ice cream from Kurosawa Farm that was stocked in the freezer—it really hit the spot.
10:00 Explore the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine.
We visited Kumano Hongu Taisha, about a 20-minute drive away. Since we were traveling with the kids, we decided to skip the 158 steps leading up to the shrine and used a parking lot near the main hall instead. After a short walk along a path surrounded by greenery, we reached the shrine grounds. The children received Kumano Hongu Taisha’s original face masks. It was moving to finally pay our respects at Hongu Taisha.
12:00 Back home
Our friends’ family from Kagawa took the ferry between Wakayama and Tokushima to head home, while we flew out of Kansai International Airport. We didn’t use it because the timing didn’t work out, but if it does, flying from Nanki-Shirahama Airport to Haneda is often more convenient.
Impressions after visiting the Kumano Kodo and Chikatsuyu
I believe one of the best parts of traveling is savoring local specialties, so I loved that the inn focused on locally sourced food and drinks from Wakayama.
In my experience, families with children aged five or older can enjoy the Kumano Kodo even more. We’d definitely like to come back to make pizza, sit around a campfire, and trek the Kumano Kodo with our kids.
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