Enjoy the autumn colours of the Kumano Kodo — peak foliage dates and scenic walking routes.
This year, too, the autumn leaf colour season is approaching. In this issue, we introduce autumn foliage spots along the Kumano Kodo World Heritage Site, which stretches across Wakayama Prefecture and three other prefectures.
There are spots where you can enjoy the autumn foliage while driving, as well as spots where you can stop by while trekking along the Kumano Kodo. We also provide information on when the autumn foliage is at its best, so please use this as a reference when deciding your itinerary for Silver Week and other occasions.
Koya Ryujin Skyline
The first road to be introduced is the Koya Ryujin Skyline, a mountain road linking Koyasan and Ryujin Onsen. Along the 42.7 km long road, which runs along the border between Wakayama and Nara Prefectures, there are virgin beech forests.
The road runs through one of the highest areas in Wakayama Prefecture, allowing visitors to enjoy nature to the full. The Koya Ryujin Skyline runs through the Gomadan Mountains, which retain magnificent virgin forests. The road was converted from a toll road to a free road in 2003, attracting even more visitors.
Road conditions can be checked in advance via live cameras.
The Gomisan Sky Tower, located at the top of Gomadanzan, is just halfway along the Koya Ryujin Skyline. Be sure to take in the spectacular view from this mountain, which is 500 m higher than Koyasan. From the 33 m high observation tower (admission fee 300 yen), you can see not only the mountain scenery but also the islands of the Kii Channel and even the Shikoku Mountains if the weather is fine. There is also a roadside station attached to the site, so take a break from your drive and stop by.
Address.
Near Ryujin, Ryujin Village, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access by car
40 minutes from the Katsuragi Nishi IC on the Keinawa Expressway via National Highways 480 and 371 (to the Skyline Entrance).
Access by public transport and on foot
1 hour 40 minutes by bus from JR Kii-Tanabe Station.
Best time to visit
Late October – early November.
Official website
Ryujin Village Tourist Information Website：http://www.ryujin-kanko.jp/
Sesame Sky Tower：https://gomasanskytower.com/
Kongobuji Temple, Koyasan
If you visit the Koya–Ryujin Skyline, it’s well worth continuing on to Koyasan. Here you can also enjoy beautiful autumn colours from Japanese maples and konara oaks.
Koyasan is a sacred centre of Japanese Buddhism founded by Kobo Daishi. While Kongobu-ji is the best-known temple, the entire mountain is regarded as a single sacred precinct. Along Jabara-michi (the Serpentine Path), which links Kongobu-ji to the Danjo Garan complex, autumn foliage illumination takes place from early October to early November, creating a magical atmosphere.
Because native trees grow across the mountain—and many temple grounds have planted species that turn colour—you can enjoy foliage almost anywhere. Top spots include the illuminated Jabara-michi and the main gate of Kongobu-ji; both are very popular.
With so many species, the timing of peak colour varies slightly by location. Even after the main peak, leaves often linger; for example, in 2021 visitors were still enjoying the colours around 20 November. As car parks are crowded at peak times, consider using public transport (Nankai Koyasan Cable Car).
If time allows, an overnight stay is highly recommended. Koyasan has 50+ temple lodgings (shukubō) where you can savour shōjin ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) and stroll through colourful temple gardens. Some lodgings even offer onsen (hot-spring) baths. It’s a memorable way to experience temple culture.
Address.
〒648-0296 Koyasan, Koyamachi, Ito-gun, Wakayama
Access by car.
55 minutes by car from the Katsuragi West I.C.
Access by public transport and walking
5 mins from JR Gokurakubashi Station by Nankai Koyasan Cable Car.
The Best time to see
Late October to early November.
Parking lot
Yes (free of charge, only ‘Ichino Bridge Parking Lot’ charges apply).
Official website
Takijiri-oji
Around Takijiri-oji, stands of Japanese maples create beautiful autumn colour, and there is also a large Japanese zelkova (keyaki) within the shrine grounds.
Considered the gateway to the Kumano Kodo, Takijiri-oji stands at the confluence of the Tonda and Ishifune rivers; from this point the pilgrimage path enters sacred ground. Pay your respects at the shrine, then enjoy a riverside hike beneath the maples.
The next spot, the Fukusada Great Ginkgo (Fukusada no Ōicho), is about 15 minutes by car or two hours on foot—try to see both.
Takijiri-oji lies on the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo, which features attractions such as the Kumano Kodokan (Information Centre) and the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Art Museum—all easy to reach from the shrine.
Address.
〒646-1421 859 Kurisugawa, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access by car.
From JR Kii-Tanabe Station, approx. 30 mins via National Route 311.
From Nanki Tanabe IC, approx. 40 mins.
Access by public transport and walking
40 minutes by bus from JR Kii-Tanabe Station, alighting at Takijiri bus stop.
The Best time to see
Late October to mid-November hectares
Parking lot
Use the Kumano Kodo Kan parking lot opposite Takijiri Oji (free of charge, 80 spaces).
Official website
http://www.wakayama-jinjacho.or.jp/jdb/sys/user/GetWjtTbl.php?JinjyaNo=7030
Ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo biloba) in Fukusada
The Fukusada Great Ginkgo (Fukusada no Ōicho) stands within the precincts of Hosen-ji Temple in Tanabe. Estimated at around 400 years old, it rises to 22 metres with a trunk circumference of 5.3 metres, and is designated a Natural Monument of Tanabe City. Because the trunk divides into multiple stems about 4 metres above the base, it is also known as the “Senbon Ginkgo” (“thousand-trunk ginkgo”).
From late October to mid-November, visitors from across Japan come to admire its autumn colours. It’s striking even from afar, and the golden carpet of fallen leaves is a highlight in its own right.
The tree lies about a two-hour walk from Takijiri-oji mentioned earlier (or 15 minutes by car). Consider making it your goal while trekking the Kumano Kodo.
Address
〒646-1432 Fukusada, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access by car.
45-minute drive from Nanki-Tanabe IC on Hanwa Expressway.
Access by public transport and walking
From JR Kii-Tanabe Station, take a bus for 50 minutes, alight at Ujiyama Bridge bus stop and walk for 10 minutes.
The best time to see
Mid-November ha
Parking lot.
Yes (free of charge, 10 cars).
Official website
https://www.wakayama-kanko.or.jp/spots/EV202/
Toganoki chaya (Tsugizakura-Oji)
©︎Wakayama Tourism Federation
Toganoki Chaya, a rest stop near Tsugizakura-oji on the Kumano Kodo, has been welcoming pilgrims since the Edo period. Its charming thatched roof set against autumn colours is a favourite photo spot, and in spring you can also enjoy cherry blossom.
Peak foliage here is late November to December, but in 2021 the colour arrived early and by early December only traces remained. They post foliage updates on Facebook, so check before you go if you want to catch the peak. Note that timing can differ from the Fukusada Great Ginkgo.
Opening hours vary by season; please check the official Facebook page for the latest information.
Address.
〒646-1401 Nonaka, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access by car.
55 minutes from JR Kii-Tanabe Station via Route 311.
65 mins from Nanki Tanabe IC via Route 311.
Access by public transport and walking
80 minutes by bus from JR Kii-Tanabe Station, get off at Nonaka One Cedar bus stop and walk 30 minutes.
The best time to see
Late November – December
Official website
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