Cherry blossoms, ginkgo trees and museums!10 sightseeing spots along the World Heritage Kumano Kodo “Nakahechi”.
The Kumano Kodo, a World Heritage Site, was and still is a constant source of visitors.
The Kumano Kodo refers to the pilgrimage route taken by pilgrims to the Kumano Sanzan (Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha) in Wakayama Prefecture.The pilgrimage paths, which are part of the so-called ‘Kumano Pilgrimage’, are still attracting attention as power spots in modern times and are visited by many people from all over Japan.
The sightseeing spots introduced here are along the Nakahechi, one of the main routes of the Kumano Kodo.Nakahechi is a route leading from the Tanabe area to the Kumano Sanzan mountains.The Kumano Kodo Museum, Takijiri Oji, Ushiba Doji, Chikarou Oji and Nonaka are all places of interest that should not be missed if you visit Nakahechi.
In this article, we introduce the spots along the way from near JR Kii Tanabe Station, the starting point of the Nakaheji Road, to the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine.
If you want to know more about the Kumano Kodo, see also this article.
Tomb of Kiyohime.
Along Nakahechi there are a number of spots associated with Kiyohime of the legend Dojoji Monogatari. Masago, Nakahechi-cho, where Kiyohime’s tomb is located, is said to be her birthplace, and a monument to her birthplace, the Masago Clan Residence Site, has been erected nearby.
Kiyohime is said to have been born to Fujiwara Saemon-no-Kiyoshige and an ‘incarnation of a white snake’ whom Kiyoshige saved from a black snake. Legend has it that Kiyohime fell in love with a monk called Anchin from Oshu-Shirakawa who came to Kumano on a pilgrimage, but when they were unable to marry, Kiyohime transformed into a giant snake and burnt Anchin to death as he hid inside the bell of Dojoji Temple.
You can also visit Fukuganji (Ichiganji), a 2 km walk north of Kiyohime’s grave. Here you will find the Kiyohime Hall.
The Jizoson (Jizo) in the precincts of this temple is called ‘Ichiganji’ because it is said to ‘grant one wish without fail’. It is also known as the ‘Mustard Jizo’ because it is said that if you offer ‘mustard’, a favourite drink of the monk who died while sitting in the main hall, your wish will be granted.
Address.
Tomb of Kiyohime：〒646-1415 374-1 Masago, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Fukuganji Temple (Ichiganji Temple)：〒646-1414 575 Nishitani, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access.
Tomb of Kiyohime：Approx. 30 minutes by bus from JR Kii-Tanabe Station, 2-minute walk from Kiyohime bus stop.
Fukuganji Temple (Ichiganji Temple)：35-minute walk from Kiyohime’s tomb.
Parking lot.
Tomb of Kiyohime：Yes (free of charge, 10 cars).
Fukuganji Temple (Ichiganji Temple)：Yes
Official website
Fukuganji Temple (Ichiganji Temple)：https://www.ichiganji.com/
Takijiri Oji
Walking along the Kumano Kodo, you will find a number of spots with the name ‘Oji’. These are places where, between the 12th and 13th centuries, Shugensha (mountain ascetics) used to stop off on their way to Kumano to perform rituals at shrines built by local people to enshrine local deities. Shugensha served as the Kumano pilgrims’ guides to the emperor and aristocrats, and it is thought that these shrines were built to pray for protection on the way to the Kumano.
There are said to be more than 100 of these places, and they are called Kujyukuu Oji (99 Oji), with 99 meaning ‘many’. Of these, the Takijiri Oji is one of the five most prestigious, and from here onwards was regarded as a Shinto shrine area.
Takijiri Oji is located at the confluence of the Tonda River and the Ishiburi River. The name Takijiri is said to derive from the fact that the rapids of the Ishibune River flow into the Tonda River, giving it the appearance of a waterfall.
Address.
〒646-1421 859 Kurisugawa, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access.
From JR Kii-Tanabe Station, 40 minutes by Ryujin Bus, alight at Takijiri bus stop.
Parking lot.
Use the parking lot of the Kumano Kodo Museum (free of charge, 80 spaces).
Kumano Kodokan
Opposite Takijiri Oji is the Kumano Kodo Kan. This rest facility provides sightseeing information and history of Nakaheji. It is said to have taken this shape because there are 12 princes in the town.
Before walking the Kumano Kodo, it is recommended to stop by the Kumano Kodo Museum to learn about history and culture. It will change the way you look at the ancient road.
Opening hours.
9:00 – 17:00 (Closed: Year-end and New Year holidays)
Admission.
Free of charge
Address.
12222 Kurisugawa, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access.
40 minutes by bus from JR Kii-Tanabe Station, short walk from Takijiri bus stop.
Parking lot.
Yes (free of charge, 40 cars).
Takahara Kumano Shrine
The Takahara Kumano Shrine is the oldest remaining shrine along the Kumano Kodo, with a colourful shrine pavilion and a 1,000-year-old camphor tree. The size of the camphor tree is sure to surprise you! It is also a popular power spot on the Kumano Kodo.
This shrine was almost lost during the Meiji era (1868-1912) when the Shinto and Buddhist traditions were combined, but it was somehow spared and has survived to the present day. Be sure to visit the Takahara Kumano Shrine, which has survived to the present day by a miracle.
Nearby is the Plateau Fog Village Resting Area, a spot where, if you are lucky, you can see a sea of clouds. The view of the sunset is also beautiful, so a visit is recommended.
If you are looking for accommodation in the area, we also recommend the SEN.RETREAT TAKAHARA, which just opened in 2022! It is an uninhabited accommodation for walkers on the Kumano Kodo, where you can stay without worrying about your surroundings. You can also enjoy BBQ using seasonal ingredients from Kumano.
Address.
〒646-1416 1120, Takahara, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, Japan
Access.
From JR Kii-Tanabe Station, 44 minutes by bus, approx. 30 minutes‘ walk from Kodogaoka bus stop, or 1 hour and 45 minutes’ walk from Takijiri bus stop.
From Kamitonda IC, 30 mins by car.
Parking lot.
‘Takahara-kirinosato Rest Area’ parking lot.(free of charge, 15 vehicles).
Ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo biloba) in Fukusada
The Fukusada no Dai Ginkgo is located in the precincts of Hosenji Temple in Tanabe City. The tree is a whopping 400 years old, with a height of 22 m and a trunk circumference of 5.3 m! It is designated as a natural monument by Tanabe City. It is also called ‘Senbon Ginkgo’ because the trunk is 4 metres high from the base and is split into several pieces.
Every year from late October to mid-November, many people from all over the country visit this large ginkgo tree to enjoy the autumn leaves. It has such a strong presence that it can be easily spotted from a distance. The carpet of golden autumn leaves that fall is also a sight to behold.
Please enjoy walking along the Kumano Kodo while viewing this large ginkgo tree.
Address.
〒646-1432 Fukusada, Nakahechi-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access.
Approx. 50 minutes by bus from JR Kii-Tanabe Station, 10 minutes walk from Ujiyama Bridge bus stop.
About 45 minutes by car from the Nanki Tanabe IC on the Hanwa Expressway.
Parking log.
Yes (free of charge, 10 cars).
Statue of Gyuba Doji
The remaining statue of Gyuba-dozi (Children of Gyuuba) at Chopenori Pass was made in memory of the young Hōhō Hanayama, and has a very lovely form! It has been selected as a designated historical site by Tanabe City.
The statue was made in the Meiji era (1868-1912) and is only 50 cm high. It is a symbol of Nakahechi. Nearby, there is a pavilion with a panoramic view of the countryside, so be sure to check this out too.
Chopstick Ori Pass is said to have been named after Emperor Hanayama Hōhō, who, on a pilgrimage to Kumano, took a break to eat a meal and broke off a piece of kayaba that was growing nearby to make chopsticks.
Address.
〒646-1402 1940 Chikaro, Nakahechi-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, Japan
Access.
Bus minutes from JR Kii-Tanabe Station, alighting at Ushibadokuchi bus stop.
Parking lot.
Use the Chikatsuyu Oji Park parking lot.(free of charge, 35 vehicles)
Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Art Museum
Nature and historic sites are not the only attractions along the Kumano Kodo!
The Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Art Museum, located along the Nakahechi Road, was the first museum created by the internationally-renowned architectural unit SANAA (Kazuyo Sejima + Ryue Nishizawa). It was designed with the concept of ‘presenting works of art in a new space and creating a place for exchange through art’. The famous 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa is another SANNA masterpiece.
The museum’s collection is centred on works by NONAGASE BANKA and WATASE Ryoun, both painters from Nakaheji. Special exhibitions are held regularly.
The museum is located about 500 metres from the Gyuba Doji statue, so be sure to visit it as well.
Opening hours.
10:00-17:00 (entry until 16:30).
Closed day
Every Monday (or the following day if Monday is a public holiday or substitute holiday)
Day after a public holiday (except Saturdays and Sundays)
28 December – 4 January
Admission fee.
Exhibition of museum collections 260 yen, small exhibitions 200 yen, special exhibitions to be determined on a case-by-case basis.(Free of charge for students under 18 years old).
Address.
〒646-1402 891 Chikatsuyu, Nakahechi-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, Japan
Access.
From JR Kii-Tanabe Station, take the Ryujin Bus (approx. 60 mins) and alight at the Nakahechi Art Museum bus stop.
From Nanki-Shirahama Airport, JR Tanabe Station or JR Shingu Station, take the Meiko Bus ‘Kaisoku Kumano Kodo’ and alight at Nakahechi Art Museum bus stop.
(Approximately 1 hour from Kii Tanabe Station. From Nanki-Shirahama Airport: approx. 1 hr 50 mins. From Shingu Station: approx. 1 hr 30 mins).
Parking lot.
Free of charge, 26 vehicles.
Official website.
https://www.city.tanabe.lg.jp/nakahechibijutsukan
Chikatsuyu Oji
The route from the Gyuba Doji statue to the Chikatsuyu Oji via the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Art Museum is about 1.3 km and is recommended for trekking beginners and those who are not confident about their fitness.
Of the many princes, the Chikatsuyu Oji is said to have been built in the early days. Today, only a stone monument remains, but it is surrounded by dense trees and has an atmospheric atmosphere.
There is a restaurant and footbath called Hashi-Ori Chaya a minute’s walk away. It is open from 7am, so you can have a morning meal on your early morning walk, buy souvenirs or just relax your tired feet from trekking. Please visit in conjunction with.
Address.
〒646-1402 901 Chikatsuyu, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access
1 min walk from Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Museum.
Parking lot.
Use the parking lot of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Museum (free of charge, 26 spaces).
Tsugizakura Oji Shrine / One-sided cedar in Nonaka / Fresh water in Nonaka.
After an hour’s walk along the Nakahechi Road from Chikatsuyu Oji towards Kumano Hongu, you will arrive at Tsugizakura Oji. Within its precincts is a group of giant cedar trees known as the ‘One-way Cedar of Nonaka’. They are designated as a natural monument by the prefecture.
The trees are estimated to be 800 years old, with trunks up to 8 m in circumference. The reason why they are called ‘one-sided cedars’ is because all the cedars extend their branches only in the direction of Kumano Nachi-taisha Shrine (to the south). Their appearance is quite mysterious.
There are currently eight giant cedar trees in existence, but there used to be about 40 before the shrine was closed and the forest cut down due to shrine enshrinement in the Meiji era (1868-1912). I wanted to see them once..! You can actually enter the cavities of the old trees. It is a large space that can accommodate about 20 adults.
The Nonaka lion dance is held every year on 3 November, 2 and 3 January. Be sure to watch the festival, which has a history of about 700 years.
If you visit the one-way cedar in Nonaka, stop by Toganoki Teahouse, 50 m further on. You can enjoy Kumano’s local cuisine in a restaurant with a thatched roof and sunken hearth, where you can feel a sense of history. The speciality is ‘chagayu’!
This is also a spot where you can see cherry blossoms in spring, fresh greenery and autumn leaves in autumn. The 250-year-old building is said to have been an inn where travellers on Kumano pilgrimages stayed since the Edo period (1603-1868).
Nonaka no Shimizu (Nonaka’s fresh water), selected in 1985 as one of the 100 best waters in Japan, is located directly under Nonaka no Ipponsugi. (15-minute walk).
Nonaka’s fresh water has long been a water supply spot for walkers along the Kumano Kodo. It is still used by local people as a precious source of drinking and living water. The spring water has never run dry.
Opening hours.
Toganoki teahouse: 8:00-16:00.
Address.
Tsugizakura Ojisha：〒646-1401 Nonaka, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Toganoki teahouse：393 Nonaka, Nakaheji-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access.
84 minutes by bus from JR Kii-Tanabe Station, 20 minutes walk from Nonaka One Cedar bus stop.
60-minute drive from Nanki-Tanabe IC on Hanwa Expressway.
Parking lot.
Use of the Nonaka Shimizu car park (free of charge, 3 parking spaces).
Hidehira cherry (Prunus incisa)
The Hidehira Cherry Blossom is located 100 m from the Tsugizakura Oji Shrine. It is said that when Fujiwara no Hidehira of Oshu visited Kumano on a pilgrimage to Kumano, he prayed for the safety of his child whom he had left behind at the Iwaya in Takijiri and broke the cherry tree there and replaced it with another tree. The existing cherry trees have been planted several times.
They bloom later than someiyoshino cherry trees and can be enjoyed until mid-April.
There is a legend about Hidehira.
Hidehira was not blessed with children, but thanks to a Kumano pilgrimage, his wife conceived a child, so he decided to go to Kumano to pay his respects. When he reached the shrine of the Prince of Tsugizakura, a child was born, even though he was not yet in the last month of pregnancy. He did as he was told, and, pointing to a cherry tree he had folded in his hand, he went to the Kumano Hongu shrine, wishing that the cherry tree would be in bloom by the time he returned from his pilgrimage. When he hurried back, the cherry trees were in full bloom and the child was growing plump, drinking white milk dripping from a rock.
Address.
〒646-1401 Nonaka, Nakahechi-cho, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture
Access.
84 minutes by bus from JR Kii-Tanabe Station, 5 minutes walk from Nonaka Ipponsugi bus stop.
Parking lot.
Use of the Nonaka Shimizu car park (free of charge, 3 parking spaces).
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