The Kumano Kodo: A Sacred Land of Renewal — Why This Ancient Pilgrimage Became a UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Kumano Kodo, which stretches across Wakayama and three neighboring prefectures, is a pilgrimage route connecting three sacred shrines collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan. In this article, we explore the long history of this spiritual path.
What is the Kumano Kodo, and where is it located?
The Kumano Kodo—officially part of the “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range”—was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.
These ancient pilgrimage paths lead to the three grand shrines of Kumano (the Kumano Sanzan): Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hayatama Taisha, centered in Wakayama Prefecture. Long revered as a spiritual “power spot,” the Kumano Kodo continues to draw visitors from across Japan today.
Along the routes, rivers, waterfalls, and great rock formations are believed to be inhabited by deities. Rooted in nature worship (shinto animism), the area is often called “the Land of Renewal.”
Spanning about 600 kilometers across Wakayama, Mie, Nara, and Osaka, the Kumano Kodo is not a single path but a network of five main routes—Nakahechi, Iseji, Kohechi, Kiiji, and Ohechi—dotted with historic landmarks. There are many ways to walk and experience these trails.
When Was the Kumano Kodo Founded? Unraveling Its Long History
Now, let’s explore the history of the Kumano Kodo.
Each of the Kumano Sanzan—Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hayatama Taisha—has myths that speak to its origins. At Hongu, a giant yew was revered; at Nachi, the sacred object is Nachi Falls; and at Hayatama, the monolithic Gotobiki Iwa (rock) served as an object of nature worship, reflecting the region’s Shinto-animist roots.
Myths Surrounding the Origins of the Kumano Sanzan
The Origins of Kumano Hongu Taisha
Let’s begin with the origins of Kumano Hongu Taisha.
According to the Imperial Chronicles (Kōyōdai Ryakuki) and the Shrine Records (Jinja Engi), three moons descended upon a great yew tree in a sacred place called Oyunohara. The middle moon spoke, declaring:
“I am Ketsumimiko no Ōkami (the deity Susanoo-no-Mikoto), and the moons on either side are Izanami no Mikoto and Hayatama no Ōkami. Build a shrine and enshrine us.”
Following this divine command, a shrine was constructed at Oyunohara—the origin of today’s Kumano Hongu Taisha.
The Origins of Kumano Nachi Taisha
An equally fascinating legend surrounds Kumano Nachi Taisha. In 662 B.C., the expedition of Kamuyamato Iwarebiko no Mikoto—later known as Emperor Jinmu, Japan’s first emperor—landed on what is now Nachi Beach.
As they journeyed toward a radiant mountain, they discovered the magnificent Nachi Falls, which they enshrined as the sacred body of the deity Ōkuninushi no Kami.
Guiding the party was the three-legged crow, Yatagarasu, who, after completing his mission, is said to have transformed into stone—now known as the Karasu-ishi (“Crow Stone”).
The Origins of Kumano Hayatama Taisha
Kumano Hayatama Taisha is believed to mark the site where the deities of Kumano descended to earth.
According to ancient texts such as the Kumano Gongen Gotobiki Engi, the deities descended upon the massive Gotobiki Iwa rock on Mount Kamikura.
In the 58th year of Emperor Keikō’s reign, a new shrine was built at the present site to enshrine them. The new sanctuary was named Shingū (“New Shrine”), in contrast to the Motomiya (“Original Shrine”) located at Gotobiki Iwa.
The Fusion of Shinto and Buddhism: The Rise of the Kumano Pilgrimage
The three shrines, each of which originally developed from its own form of nature worship, came under the influence of Buddhism in the late 10th century, giving rise to Shinbutsu Shūgō—the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism.
From that time, each shrine began to enshrine the principal deities of the other two, and today all three still share the worship of twelve common deities.
Faith in the Kumano Sanzan flourished during the Heian period (794–1185). In its early years, the region served as a sacred training ground for Shugendō practitioners, and it is believed that the routes of the Kumano Kodo were established during this period.
From the late Heian period, the imperial family and aristocrats began making pilgrimages to Kumano, followed later by samurai and commoners. The number of visitors became so great that the phenomenon was described as the “Ant Pilgrimage to Kumano,” likening the crowds to an endless procession of ants.
In those days, a pilgrimage to Kumano was a life-threatening journey—a round trip from Kyoto could take about a month. The act of leaving the secular world, visiting the divine realm of Kumano, and returning was itself regarded as spiritual training. This idea is the reason Kumano is often called the “Land of Rebirth.”
Countless people walked the Kumano Kodo, seeking salvation and renewal.
Pilgrims also believed that each visit brought greater blessings, prompting many to return again and again. Among them, Emperor Shirakawa visited nine times, Emperor Toba twenty-one times, Emperor Go-Shirakawa thirty-four times, and Emperor Go-Toba twenty-eight times—remarkable devotion by any measure.
During the Meiji period (1868–1912), when Shinbutsu Shūgō was officially abolished, the Buddhist halls at Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha were dismantled. However, the Nyoirin-dō Hall at Kumano Nachi Taisha remained intact, as it was part of the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. It continues today as the independent Seiganto-ji Temple.
When visiting Kumano Nachi Taisha, be sure to stop by this temple as well.
The Kumano Kodo: The Five Main Routes
As pilgrimages to Kumano flourished and travelers from across Japan set out for the Kumano Sanzan, the Kumano Kodo gradually took shape as five principal routes:
Kiiji (Kii-ji) — runs along the western coast of the Kii Peninsula
Nakahechi — a mountain-crossing route branching off Kiiji across the peninsula
Ohechi (Ōhechi) — another Kiiji branch that follows the southern coastline
Iseji — follows the eastern coast of the peninsula
Kohechi — links Mount Koya (Kōyasan) with the Kumano Sanzan
Each route has its own character—iconic landmarks, scenic viewpoints, and a few challenging sections. If you’re visiting for pilgrimage or trekking, choose the route that best matches your fitness level and schedule.
What Are the “Oji Shrines” Along the Kumano Kodo?
As you walk the Kumano Kodo, you’ll come across many sites named “Ōji.” These were subsidiary shrines where, between the 12th and 13th centuries, local communities enshrined deities and Shugendō practitioners (yamabushi) stopped to perform rites during the Kumano pilgrimage. Because these practitioners often served as forerunners/guides for retired emperors and aristocrats, the Ōji shrines are thought to have been established to pray for protection and safe passage along the route.
There were over a hundred such sites, collectively known as the Kujūku Ōji (“Ninety-Nine Ōji,” with 99 used idiomatically to mean “many”). Well-known examples include Hosshinmon-ōji, Fushiogami-ōji, Takijiri-ōji, and Chikatsuyu-ōji.
Why the Kumano Kodo Was Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Kumano has been revered from mythic times to the present day, and in 2004 it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in recognition of its history and landscapes.
The Kumano Kodo is officially part of “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” It was Japan’s first inscription as a Cultural Landscape on the World Heritage List. UNESCO recognizes the area for its cultural landscapes reflecting the enduring traditions of sacred mountains that have been handed down to the present day, alongside its rich natural environment—mountains, forests, rivers, and more.
Only a few pilgrimage routes worldwide are inscribed as World Heritage. The Kumano Kodo is among them, together with the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in Spain and France (and a small number of other historic route networks).
At Kumano Hongu Taisha, you can even obtain a collaborative omamori (amulet) linked with Santiago de Compostela—designed by manga artist Hirohiko Araki of JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure fame—imbued with a wish for global harmony.
Minakata Kumagusu (1867–1941)—a biologist and folklorist—returned to his native Wakayama after studying abroad and championed the value of Kumano’s nature and its tradition of nature worship. He tirelessly advocated for the protection of shrine forests (chinju no mori). His given name “Kumagusu” is associated with the Komori Kusu Shrine at Fujishiro Shrine, which his family venerated and where the deities of Kumano are enshrined. Kumagusu’s conservation efforts are widely regarded as having contributed to the recognition and preservation of the Kumano landscape celebrated by today’s World Heritage inscription.
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