Kumano Hayatama-taisha Shrine and Gotobikiwa

Kumano Hayatama-taisha is one of the three Kumano-sanzan shrines in Shingu City, Wakayama Prefecture. Together with Kumano Nachi-taisha in Nachikatsuura-machi and Kumano Hongu-taisha in Hongu City, it is regarded as one of the Kumano Sanzan and the headquarters of more than 4,000 Kumano shrines throughout Japan. The pilgrimage route to the Kumano Sanzan is called Kumano Kodo, and is registered as a World Heritage Site, so Kumano Hayatama-taisha is part of the World Heritage Site.

In this article, we will unravel the history of Kumano Hayatama-taisha Shrine and introduce some of the sights and famous spots of Kumano Hayatama-taisha Shrine that you must not miss when you visit. Information on vermilion seals, access and parking is also included!

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

What is Kumano Hayatama-taisha? History and deities

The history and features of Kumano Hayatama-taisha, one of the Kumano Sanzan, the reason it was registered as a World Heritage Site, and the deities enshrined at the shrine are introduced!

You will enjoy your visit even more if you learn about the history and attractions of Kumano Hayatama-taisha before you visit.

History and features of Kumano Hayatama-taisha shrine

According to books such as Kumano Gongen Gotobiki Engi, the gods of Kumano descended on Gotobiki Rock on Mount Kamikura, and a shrine was built in Keiko 58 to enshrine them at their present location. At that time, the shrine was named ‘Shingu’ in contrast to ‘Motomiya’ on Gotobiki Rock.

At first, two temples were dedicated to Kumano Hayatama Ookami, Kumano Osumi Ookami and Ietsumi Miko Ookami, but by the beginning of the Heian period (794-1185), twelve temples were completed, as is the case today, and twelve deities were worshipped there. It can be inferred that the shrine buildings were painted in vermilion, as vivid as they are today, from the fact that they are depicted in tannuri in the Kumano Gongen Tarutsu Engi as well as in the Ippen Shonin Seinei (Seine pictures of Priest Ippen).

As can be seen from the fact that the Chronicles of Japan records that Emperor Jinmu made a pilgrimage to Mount Kamikura, nature worship has been rooted in Mount Kamikura since ancient times.

The Kumano Hayatama-taisha shrine precept is ‘wet straw-shoes no irido’. In the past, those who walked the Kumano Kodo and paid homage to Kumano Hayatama-taisha were warmly welcomed by the people who were used to the deities of Kumano Hayatama-taisha. This shrine motto was established from the fact that the worshippers were welcomed into the hall of worship even if their straw sandals were wet from the rain.

World Heritage Sites ‘Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range’ and Kumano Nachi-taisha Shrine.

The Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range’ – Kumano Kodo – was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2004. It was the first cultural landscape in Japan to be inscribed on the World Heritage List. Kumano Hayatama-taisha shrine is part of this Kumano Kodo.

Kumano was regarded as a holy place that accepted and saved all people regardless of status or gender, from aristocrats and warriors to commoners, and many people paid homage to the three Kumano mountains in search of blessings such as good health, long life and fulfilment of wishes. The pilgrimage was called the ‘Ants’ Kumano Kodo’, a reference to the procession of ants. In the late Heian period (794-1185), records show that Emperors Toba, Go-Shirakawa and Go-Toba visited the Kumano Sanzan many times.

At that time, it was necessary to walk approximately 600 km round trip, or about a month’s journey, to visit the Kumano Sanzan from the capital. Unlike today, it was a life-threatening journey. The Kumano Pilgrimage was so demanding that it meant going to the Land of Hades, being reborn and returning to the present world. This is why the three mountains of Kumano are called the ‘Land of Rebirth’.

What deities are enshrined at Kumano Hayatama Taisha?

The same 12 deities are enshrined at Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha, the three shrines of Kumano.

Kumano Hayatama-taisha has two main deities, Kumano Hayatama-taishin (the deity of Kumano Hayatama) and Kumano Fusumi-taishin (the deity of Kumano Fusumi), who are said to have deified the movement of water. As they are husband and wife deities, many people visit the shrine as a shrine of marriage.

Red seals and charms

You can receive two types of red seals: one for Kumano Hayatama-taisha Shrine and one for Kamikura Shrine (a regent shrine within the flying grounds of Kumano Hayatama-taisha Shrine). There are also special red seals designed to match the year’s zodiac sign.

Although not a vermilion seal, you can also receive an obuji called the Kumano Gyuohoin (Kumano Gyuohoin). It is written in crow characters, a pictorial representation of a raven, and different designs are available for each of the three Kumano mountains. They have long been popular as a means of healing illness and warding off calamity.

The sacred tree of Kumano Hayatama-taisha, the nagi, has been revered as a bonding agent because its leaves are hard to break. For this reason, you can receive amulets such as ‘Nagi-mamori’ and ‘Nagi Ningyo’ at Hayatama-taisha Shrine.

This place is indispensable! Places to see at Kumano Hayatama Taisha

Here are some must-visit spots when you visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha.

Kumano Hayatama-taisha shrine, pavilion of worship

The worship halls, with their bright vermilion colouring, contain the first (Yugumiya) and second (Hayatama-miya) halls, where the main deities, Kumano Hayatama-no-Okami and Kumano Fusumi-no-Okami, are enshrined. To the right of the two palaces are the Three Temples, the Upper Three Temples and the Eight Shrine Halls.

Along the main approach to the shrine, there is also the Yatagarasu Shrine, dedicated to Yatagarasu, who is said to have led Emperor Jinmu to discover the land of Kumano, and the Teryokio Shrine, dedicated to Teryokio-no-Mikoto, who is the deity of human muscle power.

Kumano Museum of Divine treasures

The Kumano Hayatama-taisha Shrine has a collection of about 1,200 sacred treasures designated as national treasures. Some of the furnishings are said to have been dedicated by Lord Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in the Muromachi period (1336-1573)! This is the perfect place to learn about the history of Kumano.

Entrance fee

Adults: 500 yen (free for high school students and below)

opening hours

9:00-16:00.

Day on which a museum

Open daily (closed for repairs due to ageing as of 2022/3).

Nagi (Rhododendron nagi)

Towering over the precincts of the temple is a large nagi tree, which is said to be 1,000 years old. The nagi has been revered as a symbol of Kumano Gongen. It is customary to visit the shrine with a leaf of the nagi tree in one’s pocket.

At around 18 m, it is one of the largest trees in Japan. It has been designated a national natural monument as the ‘Nagi of Kumano Hayatama Shrine’.

Kamikura shrine Gotobiki rock

It is said that the Gotobiki Rock at Kamikura Shrine, located at the southern end of Mt Gongen (Mt Kamikura), about 17 minutes’ walk from Kumano Hayatama-taisha Shrine, is where the Kumano gods first descended. Later, the descended deities were welcomed and enshrined at the Kumano Hayatama-taisha shrine, and so the shrine came to be known as ‘Motomiya’ and the Kumano Hayatama-taisha shrine as ‘Niimiya’.

This is the place where Kumano worship can be said to have originated, so if you visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Kamikura Shrine is a must-visit spot, but you may need comfortable walking shoes and physical fitness when visiting. The elevation is low at about 80 m, but it takes some stamina to climb the 538 steep steps that lead up from the torii gate. Once you have climbed the precipice, you will be greeted by a large giant rock. The Kamakura-zukuri stone steps on the approach are said to have been donated by Minamoto no Yoritomo.

Gotobiki’ means toad in the local dialect and is thought to have been associated with the shape of the giant rock.

The Kamikura Shrine is home to the famous Oto Matsuri festival. Every year on 6 February, nearly 2,000 men run down stone steps carrying torches. The participants are called ‘Agariko’, dressed in white with a rope wrapped around their waists, and many people come to watch the powerful Agariko run down the steps as soon as the gate opens. (Only those involved in the Corona Disaster are allowed to take part in the festival.)

Address

1-13-8, Kamikura, Shingu, Wakayama

Access

15-minute walk from Shingu Station, 17-minute walk from Kumano Hayatama Taisha shrine.

How to get there? Getting to Kumano Hayatama-taisha shrine

Trains and buses

The station is within walking distance of JR Shingu Station.

Shingu Station is approximately 4.5 hours from Shin-Osaka Station on the limited express Kuroshio, or 3.5 hours from Nagoya Station on the limited express Nanki.

The time required

• 20-minute walk from JR Shingu Station.
• From JR Shingu Station, take the Kumano Kotsu or Mie Kotsu bus and get off at the Gongen-mae bus stop (time required: 5 minutes).
• From JR Shingu Station, take the Kumano Kotsu Fureai Bus and get off at Hayatama-taisha-mae bus stop (time required: 5 minutes).

Car

If you are coming by car, there is a free car park near the precinct, with a limited number of parking spaces (around 20), but a temporary car park is open during peak season.

Parking address.

1-6 Shingu, Shingu, Wakayama 647-0081

the time required

From the Kansai region, less than 2 hours from the Kamitonda IC on the Hanwa Expressway – Kisei Expressway.

From the direction of Nagoya, 40 minutes from the Kumano Odomari IC via the Tomeihan Expressway, Ise Expressway and Kisei Expressway.

Charges.

Free (no booking required)